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Tasting Istria - signature food and wine
We were warmly greeted at Konoba Astarea
by chef Nino Kernjus. Konoba Astarea is a traditional inn run by the Kernjus family, located in the small village of in Brtonigla, near Buje.
Nino Kernjus
Once again, slow-cooking took place, as our meals were traditionally prepared in čripnja under cinders, under the watchful eye of Mrs Kernjus.
Cooking the traditional way
As we sipped Malvazija, white, dry, fresh and fruity, from the Poletti vineyard,
Nino ran through his menu of the day.
We were fortunate to be joined by the charming, current owner of Poletti, Peter
Poletti. Peter's story is
one of six generations of wine growers, that started with Grampa Peiero
Bernobich in 1842, who died within days of his 100th birthday.
Peter Poletti
After an array of starter dishes,
Nino brought to the table one of Konoba Astarea's signature dishes, grilled monk fish. He served it in the earthenware pot - čripnja. The fish was cooked with layers of sliced potatoes, onions, and scallops, over a hot, fire-clay slab, covered with cinders.
And of course, there was more wine. After the Malvazija, came a dry, white Chardonnay with a flowery bouquet, a robust, purple-red, dry Teran, and finally a red, dry and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon.
Wine was not the only alcoholic drink on the menu. At the end of the meal we were invited to try two Istrian traditional alcoholic drinks soupa and grappa.
Sacha drinking supa the traditional way 
my glass of supa
Supa is traditionally served in terracotta pitchers, and is a concoction of red wine, olive oil, sugar, pepper and roasted bread. Sounds strange, but the taste is a pleasant warming surprise.
Grappa or rakija, introduced by the Turks, is made from distilled alcohol flavoured with friuts and herbs. It is usually served as an aperitif, but Nino was insistent that we try Biska, flavoured with mistletoe, as it would serve as a digestive aid.
Nino is a very wise man.
Addresses:
1. Konoba Astarea. 52 474 Brtonigla. +385 52 774384. website: www.konoba-astarea-brtonigla.com
2. Poletti vineyard: website www.vina-poletti.hr
Page 4: Pig to Prust ...
For more about Gastronomic Istria visit the official tourism website of Istria.
Disclaimer: My trip to Istria was funded by the Istrian tourism board.
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